A Toast to Tradition, Terroir, Organic Umbrian Wine (and Love)
A Bit of Bolla Family History
The year was 1883. In the small town of Soave, in the Northern Italian province of Veneto, Paolo Bolla’s great, great, great Grandad, Abele, worked hard behind the desk of his Inn, ‘Al Gambero’. Then, as now, Veneto’s sun-baked, mineral-rich soils were loved by juicy grapes and bottled into iconic varietals. Prosecco, Pinot Grigio, Soave, Valpolicella, and Recioto attracted tourists from near and far. Indeed, the verdant hillsides around Abele’s wee hotel already boasted Italy’s largest wine production. Abele decided, perhaps over a glass of eponymously named Soave, it was time to branch out into the wine business.
Thus, a family legacy was born.
This is Where our Two Tales Come Together
The wine aficionados of Veneto couldn’t keep it to themselves forever. In 1953, the Bolla Label became the first winery to put the name “Amarone” on a wine label. Thus, the Bolla family introduced the delicious full-bodied, complex dry, red wine with notes of “cherry liqueur, black fig, carob, cinnamon, plum sauce, dried violets, dark chocolate, coffee, and tobacco” to the world!
So, without further ado, here’s Paolo Bolla.
Paolo Bolla’s Story
Q: Tell us about the origins of your family’s wine-making heritage in Veneto.
Paolo Bolla: Our family’s wine making story began in 1883 in Veneto, with the establishment of the Bolla vineyard. For four generations, we have nurtured a strong tradition of wine making. Amarone is now one of the most famous wines from the region. It’s a legacy I’ve always been passionate about, and it remains a core part of who I am.
Q: Were you always passionate about wine and the family business?
Paolo: Yes, absolutely. Wine has always been part of our family’s tradition. I grew up immersed in the process, so it became second nature to me. There was never a moment when I thought of doing anything else.
Q: How did you come to be in Umbria, and why did you make the move?
Paolo: My wife Stefania’s mother was originally from Umbria. Through her, I fell in love with the region. In 2001, we decided to move from Verona to Umbria with our three daughters. The land, the energy—it all felt right.
Q: Is Fontesecca a family business? What roles does everyone play?
Paolo: Yes, Fontesecca is very much a family-run operation. I work full-time alongside my daughter Beatrice and my son-in-law, (also called) Paolo. My wife and our other daughters help when they’re with us. Together, we not only produce wine and olive oil but also run an agriturismo.
Q: What do you love most about the land and the energy of this place?
Paolo: I love the open-air lifestyle, the natural cycles, the light, and the beautiful landscape. There’s something special about working with the land—it’s humbling, and it grounds you in the rhythm of nature.
Q: If you could give advice to your younger self, what would it be?
Paolo: Always chase your dreams and never stop working to make them a reality.
Q: Who has inspired you the most in your life?
Paolo: There are too many people to name, but the best among them have taught me something important. Every experience and person I’ve met has influenced me in some way.
The Fontesecca Vineyard Story
Q: How did Fontesecca begin?
Paolo: Fontesecca was born in 2005. We started with just one hectare, which was planted in 1973 by the previous owner, Giovanni Parbuono. These vines are still in production today. We expanded by planting more vineyards using the same varieties from that first hectare.
Q: What is the philosophy behind Fontesecca?
Paolo: Our philosophy is rooted in simplicity, naturalness, and respect for the land. We strive to express the natural character of the territory and the uniqueness of each vintage.
Q: Do you follow traditional wine making ‘rules,’ or do you break them?
Paolo: We follow the few rules we’ve set for ourselves, but we aren’t afraid to break the ones we find unnecessary. It’s about striking a balance between tradition and innovation.
Q: What inspired you to be organic? Was it challenging?
Paolo: The motivation was simple: to do our best to protect and respect our little corner of the world. It’s challenging but incredibly rewarding. We felt a natural pull to move in that direction—it’s important for the environment and the quality of our wines.
Q: What grapes do you use, and why?
Paolo: For our reds, we use Ciliegiolo, Sangiovese, and Canaiolo. For the whites, we work with Trebbiano Toscano, Grechetto, and Malvasia. These grape varieties have been perfectly adapted to the local environment for centuries. This allows them to express the essence of the land better than any other grapes.
Q: What makes Fontesecca’s wines unique?
Paolo: Our wines are a pure expression of the territory and the natural qualities of each grape and vintage. We emphasize the natural balance between the land, the climate, and the grapes.
Q: What is the terroir of your vineyard?
Paolo: Our terroir is hilly with sandy and clay soils, and the vineyard is exposed to the southeast. Fossils of ancient seashells are embedded in the soil, which gives the wines a distinct minerality. The combination of these factors gives our wines depth and strength.
Q: How does your wine compare to the famous wines of neighbouring Montepulciano?
Paolo: We are close to Montepulciano but also quite different. Apart from Sangiovese, we use local varieties like Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo, Trebbiano Toscano, and Grechetto, which aren’t as common in Montepulciano.
Q: How many bottles do you produce, and which wines are the most popular?
Paolo: We produce around 15,000 bottles a year. Our most popular wines are Ciliegiolo, Sangiovese Pino (named after my father), and Bianco Elso.
Q: What’s the story behind the names and label designs?
Paolo: Our labels reflect what we do and how we do it. The names come from the vines, except for two special wines: Sangiovese Pino, dedicated to my father, and Bianco Elso, dedicated to the previous owner, Elso.
Q: What’s one thing you want people to know about Umbrian wine?
Paolo: Umbrian wine is good, healthy, and natural—just like the land it comes from.
Q: What are the best things to do with kids in your area, and what are your favorite restaurants?
Q: What’s your definition of success?
Paolo: Success is making your passion your profession.
Fontesecca is the realisation of Paolo Bolla’s dream. A blend of his famous family’s Veneto heritage and his love for the Umbrian landscape. Paolo, along with his family, continues to innovate while respecting the traditions that have been passed down through generations. Whether it’s the vineyard’s organic approach, or its family-driven operations, Fontesecca stands as a tribute to dedication and love for winemaking.
December 23, 2024